Exfoliation: What you need to know about scrubs, enzymes, and chemicals

skincare, stratia, ole hendrikson, boscia, tatcha, perricone, sunday riley, peter thomas roth, drunk elephan

Exfoliation is your BEST FRIEND! It is going to help you with the majority of your skin concerns. I cannot reiterate this enough. When client’s express concerns about texture, breakouts, clogged pores, uneven skin tone etc. my first question is always "Do you exfoliate" and 90% of the time the answer is "no". BUT WHY?! Everyone should have a well-formulated exfoliant in their skincare routine. Or they tell me "My cleanser has beads in it," NOT GOOD ENOUGH SUSAN!

However, what I find is there is a TON of misconceptions and confusion behind exfoliating. So, here we go...a simplified breakdown of exfoliation. 

So why is Susan's scrubbing cleanser not good enough? Listen, if you are 14 years old this is a great start. However, if you have real skin concerns this is absolutely not enough. You need a chemical exfoliant, something that is going to penetrate through the dead skin. Think about it, a scrub is only going to address the outer most layer of the skin, it will slough away superficial dry dead flaky skin, at most. You have clogged pores? Think about those granules for a second...Do you really think they are capable of penetrating your pores to remove dirt and solidified oil? Look at those granules and look at your pore size...it is NEVER going to work Susan. A chemical exfoliant is the only thing that is capable of penetrating a pore. Let me repeat this, a chemical exfoliant is the ONLY thing that will penetrate a pore. 

If you are suffering from breakouts and/or blackheads you need a BHA exfoliant. What is a BHA? It stands for beta hydroxy acid, you will see it listed as salicylic acid. This is an oil soluble exfoliant. What does this mean? Well, oil is in your pores and lies on the surface of your skin. Salicylic will penetrate through this oil to remove debris from the pores. Clear pores mean fewer breakouts and reduced blackheads. Yay exfoliation!

There are a number of other chemical exfoliants out there. This can get a little confusing so I do not want to go into too much detail. If you want to know more please leave a comment and I will absolutely explain with more detail.

The other chemical exfoliants you will come across are AHAs, alpha hydroxy acids. The most common of which are glycolic acid and lactic acid. Glycolic will be in the majority of exfoliants marketed as anti-aging. However, I think the biggest misconception here is that it is ONLY for aging skin. This is false, most anyone will benefit from glycolic acid. It works beautifully to smooth textured skin, speed cell turnover and will ensure your serums are not wastefully sitting on top of dead skin. The maximum percentage of glycolic over the counter is a 10%. If you find a product with 10% you will feel the glycolic. It feels a bit tingly or itchy but it subsides and this is normal, do not panic! 

If you are suffering from breakouts I would highly recommend finding a product with both AHAs and BHAs this will ensure your skin is getting the benefits of both types of acids.

Finally, I want to talk about what type of product to look for. Just skip the exfoliating cleansers, please. Invest in a product that spends time on the skin such as a serum or mask. A cleanser only stays on the skin for approximately 30 seconds. This is simply not long enough to allow chemical exfoliants to do their job and is a complete waste. I highly recommend investing in an exfoliating serum. A serum is going to remain on the skin indefinitely and thus have plenty of time to work its magic. I like to apply my exfoliating serum first, then I apply a targeted treatment serum such as a dark spot corrector, a vitamin C, or a hydrating serum. This method will ensure my treatment serum is not sitting on top of dead skin and allows it will go where it needs to be. 

Another option is a mask that stays on the skin 15-20 minutes. These are typically a bit stronger and are only needed a couple of times a week. HOWEVER, consistency is key with these. If you are someone who will forget to use a mask or cannot find the time to let a mask sit for 20 minutes, then invest in the serum option. 

I could go on for days about this topic but my goal is to keep it simple. I plan to go into further detail in future posts about Ph, more AHA’s, and specific products. However, if you have specific questions please comment below.

Blue LED light for acne

I will admit that I am a total research junkie! I will not believe in something unless it is backed by scientific research. One of the perks of being in college is having access to peer reviewed scientific research articles. I can spend all day reading scientific findings and actually enjoy it! LED light is one of the most researched skin care devices on the market.

However, even with all the research in the world I just have to see it to believe it. This is especially true for ANY acne product, as acne is one of the most finicky skin concerns and there is no one product that works universally for those suffering from breakouts. 

In addition to my total nerd status of reading research articles, I am also a TOTAL skeptic. Anyone that works with me will tell you this. And honestly, I absolutely hate being so negative about 90% of skincare products but 90% are absolute garbage. I usually just keep my mouth shut when some new "holy grail anti aging, pore reducing, skin smoothing, glow enhancing, moisturizing, and mattifying" BS comes out, in attempt to not rain on my coworker's parades. So needless to say I was 100% skeptical of LED light treatments, especially lower strength devices sold over the counter. 

I ordered the professional Lightstim Acne light to use in the spa on my clients, but as with anything I use on my clients, I first put it to the test on myself. I have dry as the Sahara skin, that is congested by any moisturizer and consequently, breaks out. It is a constant battle between dryness and breakouts. So with acne treatments being geared towards oily skin, anything I used to treat breakouts worsens the dryness. 

But wait for it.....YUP you guess it, blue LED light is the holy grail answer! I was blown away by this treatment. I can finally use something to treat and prevent breakouts without drying my skin. Blue LED light works by killing the bacteria UNDER the skin. Thus, preventing breakouts from ever arising. 

Additionally, if I do have a current acne lesion the LED light will prevent it from surfacing. What does this mean? It dissipates the potential for scarring as the breakout does not surface and thus does not require extracting. 

It is so easy to use at home as well, after cleansing and applying my usual nightly skin care regime I get all cozy in bed or on the couch and plug in my light. I turn it on and hold it directly against the skin, preventing any precious light from escaping, and hold it there for approximately 3-5 minutes. I no longer use a timer and just hold it longer in my problem areas for good measure. I typically use my light a few times a week, and if take some time off I will get a few breakouts here and there. Like with anything in Skincare, consistency is key. There are a lot of LED lights on the market. I chose Lightstim for their 5-year warranty, price point, amazing customer service, quality and is the only LED light company based in the US. 

If you are suffering from major or minor breakouts I highly recommend blue light treatments. Lightstim retails theirs for $169 , or for a stronger treatment, I offer LED light treatments as part of a $50 acne facial at my private practice, Esthology Skincare in Upland, CA.

Shed some skin!

Exfoliation is essential in any skincare routine; no matter what skin type or what skin concern you have exfoliation is crucial! Generally, skin cells take about 28 days to reach the surface of the skin where they die and remain until they naturally fall off or they are removed. The new skin cells are the cells we want to treat and moisturize, but they remain hidden underneath these dry, dull, dead skin cells. So all the dollars spent on those fancy creams and serums are just sitting on top of the dead skin, unable to penetrate into the areas we need them to. There is only one way to remove this dead skin, and I bet you already guessed it! EXFOLIATION!

Exfoliation can be done in 2 different ways, chemically or manually. The majority or people exfoliate with some type of scrub. These work by manually sloughing off dead skin. The key to finding a good scrub is to find a gentle one. Now, I know that sounds obvious but let's really define a gentle scrub vs a not gentle. Ground fruit seeds are not gentle in anyway shape or form. Yes, this includes the all-mighty apricot scrub; PUT THE APRICOT SCRUB DOWN! I have so many clients ripping their faces apart with this scrub, it is out of control. Here is the really crazy part, most of these clients tell me they have sensitive skin so they opted for a more natural exfoliant. Natural does not necessarily mean it is better for your skin; this notion has gotten completely out of hand.  When fruit seeds are ground down into a facial scrub the edges become jagged, uneven and abrasive. They cause tiny abrasions on the skin and are especially troublesome for rosacea or acneic skin types. When used on acne they cause acne lesions to tear, thus spreading bacteria and worsening breakouts and irritation. A gentle scrub is going to be a product with perfectly rounded beads or a fine powder.

The other option is going to be a chemical exfoliation. I almost always recommend a chemical exfoliant over a manual. Chemicals are able to penetrate much deeper into the skin and even into the pores, while still being gentle on the skin, a scrub simply can not provide the same results. When choosing a chemical exfoliant it is important to know the difference between Alpha Hydroxy and Beta Hydroxy Acids. Alpha Hydroxy acids are commonly referred to as AHA's.  Glycolic and lactic acids are the most common AHA's in today's market. These are going to exfoliate the surface of the skin and are known for their scientifically proven anti-aging benefits. They can be found in cleansers, toners, and many leave on products such as moisturizers. However, they are most beneficial in leave on products so the skin has time to reap the benefits. When using a product with Alpha Hydroxy acids it is imperative to wear a broad spectrum SPF of at least 15 in the day as they will make skin more susceptible to sun damage. Beta Hydroxy acids are referred to as BHA's and include salicylic acid. BHA's are oil soluble, making them the only exfoliant capable of penetrating into the pores. They are good for all skin types, especially oily, congested, or acneic types.

If there is only one thing you take away from this post, let that be that if you are intent on using a scrub switch to something gentle. If you insist on finishing up that half empty bottle of apricot scrub, use it on your feet but keep it away from your face! 

It's time to kick the bar scene

OK, so I realize a lot of people already know that bar soap is bad for their skin. However, I have had a recent slew of clients that use bar soap on their face, and they were absolutely astonished when I pleaded with them to never use it again! So this post is for them and just a reminder for those who already know. When I hear a client tell me their face is uncontrollably oily my first questions is always, "What are you using to cleanse your skin?" And more often than not the answer is bar soap. The reason bar soap is causing this increase in oil is due to the fact that it strips the skin of all the natural oils needed to keep itself hydrated and balanced. Immediately after cleansing, the skin may feel dry and tight, then later it will begin overproducing oil in order to rehydrate and restore balance. Over stripping the skin isn't just bad for oily skin tho, it can cause irreversible damage to all skin types. Natural oils form a protective barrier on the surface of the skin called the acid mantle; this thin acidic layer protects against bacteria and viruses entering the body through the skin.  Also, the skin needs natural, healthy oils to hold moisture inside. When moisture is lost through the skin, the skin becomes dehydrated forming a crepey texture that, if not treated, becomes permanent and may also lead to premature aging.  

Now, what should you use? Well, I'll be honest, I am not a believer in overspending on a cleanser. The fact is cleansers usually only remain on the skin for less than a minute. What you need is something gentle, that will still remove all traces of dirt and makeup. There are literally hundreds of well-formulated cleansers out there, for a reasonable enough price. If you are oily you will appreciate a  foaming or gel cleanser, while someone on the drier side may use more of a milky, creamy and possibly sulfate free cleanser. Oil cleansers are also becoming more and more popular, these are good for all skin types, yes EVEN oily skin. They are particularly great for removing makeup (including eye makeup). If you are oily or breakout prone, oil cleansers are a nice pre-cleanse to remove makeup and then you can use your gently foaming cleanser as a second cleanse to get a nice deep clean.

If you're intent on using up that last sliver of bar soap, please I beg of you, keep it far from your face! And next time you're tempted by that 98 cent price tag on that 4 pack of bar soap, remember you don't have to spend a fortune to get a good cleanser and the health of your skin is truly priceless.