Monday, August 19, 2013

Shed some skin!



Exfoliation is essential in any skincare routine; no matter what skin type or what skin concern you have exfoliation is crucial! Generally, skin cells take about 28 days to reach the surface of the skin where they die and remain until they naturally fall off or they are removed. The new skin cells are the cells we want to treat and moisturize, but they remain hidden underneath these dry, dull, dead skin cells. So all the dollars spent on those fancy creams and serums are just sitting on top of the dead skin, unable to penetrate into the areas we need them to. There is only one way to remove this dead skin, and I bet you already guessed it! EXFOLIATION!

Exfoliation can be done in 2 different ways, chemically or manually. The majority or people exfoliate with some type of scrub. These work by manually sloughing off dead skin. The key to finding a good scrub is to find a gentle one. Now, I know that sounds obvious but let's really define a gentle scrub vs a not gentle. Ground fruit seeds are not gentle in anyway shape or form. Yes, this includes the all-mighty apricot scrub; PUT THE APRICOT SCRUB DOWN! I have so many clients ripping their faces apart with this scrub, it is out of control. Here is the really crazy part, most of these clients tell me they have sensitive skin so they opted for a more natural exfoliant. Natural does not necessarily mean it is better for your skin; this notion has gotten completely out of hand.  When fruit seeds are ground down into a facial scrub the edges become jagged, uneven and abrasive. They cause tiny abrasions on the skin and are especially troublesome for rosacea or acneic skin types. When used on acne they cause acne lesions to tear, thus spreading bacteria and worsening breakouts and irritation. A gentle scrub is going to be a product with perfectly rounded beads or a fine powder.

The other option is going to be a chemical exfoliation. I almost always recommend a chemical exfoliant over a manual. Chemicals are able to penetrate much deeper into the skin and even into the pores, while still being gentle on the skin, a scrub simply can not provide the same results. When choosing a chemical exfoliant it is important to know the difference between Alpha Hydroxy and Beta Hydroxy Acids. Alpha Hydroxy acids are commonly referred to as AHA's.  Glycolic and lactic acids are the most common AHA's in today's market. These are going to exfoliate the surface of the skin and are known for their scientifically proven anti-aging benefits. They can be found in cleansers, toners, and many leave on products such as moisturizers. However, they are most beneficial in leave on products so the skin has time to reap the benefits. When using a product with Alpha Hydroxy acids it is imperative to wear a broad spectrum SPF of at least 15 in the day as they will make skin more susceptible to sun damage. Beta Hydroxy acids are referred to as BHA's and include salicylic acid. BHA's are oil soluble, making them the only exfoliant capable of penetrating into the pores. They are good for all skin types, especially oily, congested, or acneic types.

If there is only one thing you take away from this post, let that be that if you are intent on using a scrub switch to something gentle. If you insist on finishing up that half empty bottle of apricot scrub, use it on your feet but keep it away from your face! 

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