Out with the old in with the new! It's chemical peel time!

I am currently on day 2 of a 14% Modified Jessner's Peel I performed on myself.  About 3 weeks prior I had completed a 30% salicylic peel, with only minor peeling; I decided to increase to a stronger peel to really tackle my problematic skin. I used a Glo Professional peel which contains 14% lactic acid, 14% salicylic acid, and 14% Resorcinol with a pH of 2.00. Prior to the peel, I had been using a glycolic hydroquinone serum to ensure my hyperpigmentation would not worsen from the peel.

First, I thoroughly cleansed my skin with a foaming cleanser and my Clarisonic to remove any superficial dead skin. I then followed with the Glo Professional Peel Prep to gently strip the skin of oils to ensure an even peel. Then began the fun part! 

When I applied the first layer of the peel, the burning sensation took a good minute to really begin, it felt the strongest on my cheekbones, nose, and chin. I waited about 5 minutes before applying another layer because the burning lasted a bit longer than I expected.  The 2nd layer was much easier, I felt this the strongest around my nose. I continued the same process for 4 layers all over and an extra on my forehead for good measure. The peel had a strong raspberry scent, unlike the 30% salicylic I'd done prior, which smelled like straight rubbing alcohol.  My face was red and felt raw and tight. I left the peel on and went to bed.


The next morning my face was still red and about 2 shades darker. I rinsed my skin and applied a hydrating oil followed by a heavy moisturizer, which provided immediate relief from the extreme tightness I was feeling. I lived like a hermit the rest of the day, never leaving the house, with all the blinds pulled shut. I re-applied moisturizer about 7 times and laughed at myself in the mirror every time due to the uncanny resemblance between my skin and a mannequin, it was so tight and shiny. This morning my skin looked the same, still a couple of shades darker, and ridiculously shiny, but less red. I had to leave the house to get my books for school, so I piled on a mineral SPF 40 and layered that with an SPF 30 BB cream.  Little did I know I would also have to have my picture taken for my school ID, the flash bouncing off my face probably blinded the poor little old librarian! O well. I expect to start peeling very soon, just in time to go back to work. I will post pictures and update through out the process. 

I plan on doing a series of at least 6 over the next 6 months to improve my hyperpigmentation, scars, and congested pores and of course, you are all invited on my adventure!

Shed some skin!

Exfoliation is essential in any skincare routine; no matter what skin type or what skin concern you have exfoliation is crucial! Generally, skin cells take about 28 days to reach the surface of the skin where they die and remain until they naturally fall off or they are removed. The new skin cells are the cells we want to treat and moisturize, but they remain hidden underneath these dry, dull, dead skin cells. So all the dollars spent on those fancy creams and serums are just sitting on top of the dead skin, unable to penetrate into the areas we need them to. There is only one way to remove this dead skin, and I bet you already guessed it! EXFOLIATION!

Exfoliation can be done in 2 different ways, chemically or manually. The majority or people exfoliate with some type of scrub. These work by manually sloughing off dead skin. The key to finding a good scrub is to find a gentle one. Now, I know that sounds obvious but let's really define a gentle scrub vs a not gentle. Ground fruit seeds are not gentle in anyway shape or form. Yes, this includes the all-mighty apricot scrub; PUT THE APRICOT SCRUB DOWN! I have so many clients ripping their faces apart with this scrub, it is out of control. Here is the really crazy part, most of these clients tell me they have sensitive skin so they opted for a more natural exfoliant. Natural does not necessarily mean it is better for your skin; this notion has gotten completely out of hand.  When fruit seeds are ground down into a facial scrub the edges become jagged, uneven and abrasive. They cause tiny abrasions on the skin and are especially troublesome for rosacea or acneic skin types. When used on acne they cause acne lesions to tear, thus spreading bacteria and worsening breakouts and irritation. A gentle scrub is going to be a product with perfectly rounded beads or a fine powder.

The other option is going to be a chemical exfoliation. I almost always recommend a chemical exfoliant over a manual. Chemicals are able to penetrate much deeper into the skin and even into the pores, while still being gentle on the skin, a scrub simply can not provide the same results. When choosing a chemical exfoliant it is important to know the difference between Alpha Hydroxy and Beta Hydroxy Acids. Alpha Hydroxy acids are commonly referred to as AHA's.  Glycolic and lactic acids are the most common AHA's in today's market. These are going to exfoliate the surface of the skin and are known for their scientifically proven anti-aging benefits. They can be found in cleansers, toners, and many leave on products such as moisturizers. However, they are most beneficial in leave on products so the skin has time to reap the benefits. When using a product with Alpha Hydroxy acids it is imperative to wear a broad spectrum SPF of at least 15 in the day as they will make skin more susceptible to sun damage. Beta Hydroxy acids are referred to as BHA's and include salicylic acid. BHA's are oil soluble, making them the only exfoliant capable of penetrating into the pores. They are good for all skin types, especially oily, congested, or acneic types.

If there is only one thing you take away from this post, let that be that if you are intent on using a scrub switch to something gentle. If you insist on finishing up that half empty bottle of apricot scrub, use it on your feet but keep it away from your face! 

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Clinique Clarifying Lotions 1,2,3,4 & mild review

Clinique is a brand I had a really hard time getting into when I first began my Sephora career. My first training with the brand consisted of the brand representative boasting about how I should use Clinique because my mother and grandmother probably used Clinique,  how Clinique has been around for 40+ years and so on and so on. Well, that's wonderful for them and all, but what about those of us who aren't as eager to hop onto the Clinique bandwagon? Why should I use these products just because they've been around forever? With all the new technology and the sheer lack of actual product knowledge I received, I became convinced there were better brands to use. While I still feel this way about many of their products, mostly the ones that have been unchanged since day one, I have grown very fond of quite a few Clinique products over the years. I love the fact that they do not include fragrances. I know I have not gone into my hatred for fragrance in skincare products yet, I will save that for a future review, but believe me, it's there!

The Clarifying Lotions 1, 2,3 &4 are Clinique's step 2 in their 3 step system. They are a thin liquid consistency, unlike the title "lotion" would imply. They are applied with a cotton applicator like a toner would be after cleansing, and then meant to be followed by their infamous "Dramatically Different Moisturizer".  The lotions are marketed as exfoliants, and the different numbers refer to the different skin types each one is best suited for.  The Clarifying Lotions have been updated not too long ago to actually include a few beneficial hydrating ingredients, however, the amount of alcohol that is still contained in lotions 1,2,3 and 4  is going to produce the exact opposite effects on the skin, thus canceling the benefits of the hydrating ingredients. When alcohol is applied to the skin it destroys skin cells, creates free radical damage, and strips the skin of healthy, natural oils. Denatured alcohol is the 2nd ingredient on the list, meaning it makes up a vast majority of the product! I also do not agree with the fact that these are marketed as exfoliants. While they do include salicylic acid, which is indeed an exfoliating ingredient they just do not provide sufficient exfoliation and are misleading to consumers.  The first time I tried one of these lotions, the Clinique representative rubbed the saturated cotton round on the back of one of my hands and then instructed me to compare my hand's side by side. This is the oldest trick in the book! If a representative ever instructs you to do this please do not be fooled! The difference you will see in your hands is merely caused by the rubbing motion on the skin. It increases circulation on the skin and it will appear brighter and have a more even tone due to the blood flow.

So I realize for those that have been religiously using Clinique's 3 step system for the last 10-30 years are probably not about to take a blind leap off the bandwagon that they have been comfortably bumping along on. However, if they are coming to me with their skin concerns, I feel it is my duty as an esthetician to politely give them a nice solid shove towards the Mild Clarifying Lotion, it is the only one of the lotions that do not contain alcohol. Which, I have found many people including my fellow Sephora cast are completely unaware of. The mild version is the only one out of all 5 lotions that do not contain alcohol, and I highly recommend it to assist in removing excess makeup after cleansing, extra hydration, and VERY MILD exfoliation with a .5% salicylic acid. In conjunction with the mild lotion, I would still recommend a deeper exfoliation a few times a week for most skin types; or for acne prone skin a higher percent salicylic acid in a separate leave on product.

It's time to kick the bar scene

OK, so I realize a lot of people already know that bar soap is bad for their skin. However, I have had a recent slew of clients that use bar soap on their face, and they were absolutely astonished when I pleaded with them to never use it again! So this post is for them and just a reminder for those who already know. When I hear a client tell me their face is uncontrollably oily my first questions is always, "What are you using to cleanse your skin?" And more often than not the answer is bar soap. The reason bar soap is causing this increase in oil is due to the fact that it strips the skin of all the natural oils needed to keep itself hydrated and balanced. Immediately after cleansing, the skin may feel dry and tight, then later it will begin overproducing oil in order to rehydrate and restore balance. Over stripping the skin isn't just bad for oily skin tho, it can cause irreversible damage to all skin types. Natural oils form a protective barrier on the surface of the skin called the acid mantle; this thin acidic layer protects against bacteria and viruses entering the body through the skin.  Also, the skin needs natural, healthy oils to hold moisture inside. When moisture is lost through the skin, the skin becomes dehydrated forming a crepey texture that, if not treated, becomes permanent and may also lead to premature aging.  

Now, what should you use? Well, I'll be honest, I am not a believer in overspending on a cleanser. The fact is cleansers usually only remain on the skin for less than a minute. What you need is something gentle, that will still remove all traces of dirt and makeup. There are literally hundreds of well-formulated cleansers out there, for a reasonable enough price. If you are oily you will appreciate a  foaming or gel cleanser, while someone on the drier side may use more of a milky, creamy and possibly sulfate free cleanser. Oil cleansers are also becoming more and more popular, these are good for all skin types, yes EVEN oily skin. They are particularly great for removing makeup (including eye makeup). If you are oily or breakout prone, oil cleansers are a nice pre-cleanse to remove makeup and then you can use your gently foaming cleanser as a second cleanse to get a nice deep clean.

If you're intent on using up that last sliver of bar soap, please I beg of you, keep it far from your face! And next time you're tempted by that 98 cent price tag on that 4 pack of bar soap, remember you don't have to spend a fortune to get a good cleanser and the health of your skin is truly priceless.

Kate Sommerville Quench hydrating serum

I have decided to begin my reviews on a positive note. Kate Sommerville's Quench hydrating serum is one of my all time favorite anti aging serums. It always seems to be hidden among the other similarly packaged bottles from Kate's anti aging line on the shelves at Sephora, but trust me it's worth the extra hunt. This sleek liquid silicone based formula consists of Fatty acids, Retinol, Vitamin C (in the form of Sodium Ascorbate) and Sodium Hyaluronate (the salt version of Hyaluronic acid). The fatty acids (Triglycerides) help protect from water loss on the surface of the skin by providing a barrier, holding water in. If this barrier is compromised the skin may become dehydrated causing fine lines and premature aging to occur. Retinol is a proven beneficial ingredient and is very widely known. However, I have clients every day that do not know the benefits of retinol for their skin. Retinol helps protect the skin against free radical damage, stimulates collagen production, aids in lightening hyperpigmentation and even helps with breakouts! There is a whole slew of research backing up the benefits of retinol, and you can't argue with science! Now beware that larger amounts of retinol may cause skin sensitivities such as redness and flaking skin if you are a new user. However, with the dose of retinol in this serum you should be just fine, even with daily use. So, now that we've covered a couple of ingredients lets talk about how this serum will make your skin look and feel. Those with dry skin will highly appreciate the texture of this serum, with just one pump it immediately feels hydrating and absorbs quickly leaving behind nothing but soft supple skin. It can even be used all the way under the eye area without irritation. My normal to oily skinned clients are always a bit hesitant on this serum. Now, I understand their thoughts here but it's time for everyone to get over their fear of oils! Oil is good for the skin, and from my experience, oily skinned people are always stripping their skin with overly drying cleansers and alcohol based toners. So, of course, their skin is overproducing oil! But I will save that discussion for another post. So for now just trust me, if you are hesitant on the texture, go to Sephora or your local skin care supplier and get a sample, you won't regret it!

Quick intro before I show some skin.....care that is!

So, before we jump into the wonderful world of skin care, I'd like to share a little about myself. I was born and raised in Springfield, MO where I choose to leave in hopes of finding that beautiful green grass everyone is searching for. My search began in  Denver, CO where I attended the College of International Esthetics, specializing in the medical side of skin care, discovering a passion I never could have known existed so deeply inside of me, I became a licensed aesthetician.  After spending a couple of years in Colorado, I knew it just wasn't for me, I was after the bright lights and the hustle and bustle of big city life. So, one cold rainy day in February I packed all my belongings into my small SUV and as day turned to night I continued westward. With windshield wipers on full speed, my bright lights barely visible through the relentless downpour, and a  full-size mattress strapped to the top of my car I set off into the  Rocky Mountains continued through the Eisenhower tunnel and coasted into the desert terrain of Nevada. With the sun rising over a city in the distance I knew I had found my new home. Life in Las Vegas started out rough, between trying to find work and transferring my aesthetics license I realized I would have to take what I could get. I finally got a job as a temporary skin care consultant at the Sephora opening inside of the Forum Shops at Caesars Palace. I began my month long training learning the ins and outs of all things beauty.  Finally! City life with the glitz and the glamour I'd been craving.  I felt so glamorous every day just walking the cobblestoned walkways gazing longingly into the shops of Fendi, Louis Vuitton, and Valentino. There is nowhere else in the world you can find 6 Louis Vuitton stores within 5 miles of each other. Sadly, business slowed and I had to say goodbye to my beautiful new home.  Now I reside in southern California, which I adore, it is the perfect mix of everything I love. I am living every small town girls dream, moving from Missouri to California has been a priceless experience. Best of all I am practicing what I love, and the reason I have brought you all to my blog SKINCARE!

I currently work on clients on a daily basis, I see and treat all different skin types and conditions. I am also still employed at Sephora, in California now, as a skincare consultant, where I have received a wealth of skin care knowledge from all the brands, freebies and training I have gotten.  So now I would like to pass my knowledge and love of skin, products (good and bad), and life as an esthetician onto you!

You will also be joining me on the journey of working on my own skin. I am currently experimenting with different chemical peels and products to create improvement on my hyperpigmentation (dark spots), acne blemishes, ice pick scars (scars appearing to be very enlarged pores), clogged pores, and fine lines which you may also find helpful in treating your own skin.